Відео

You forgot the humble Kiev 60 - a solid and pretty fun 6x6

I was just gifted one of these but without a power cord! Got to find one now. I'm excited after watching this!

A very good comparison! I have been using Hasselblad 500 and 2000 for 15 years and would not go down that route again. They might be easy to carry but if you carry the whole system it gets heavy too and in both cases you are wishing for a cart to carry it a longer distance. If you are using just the 80 mm Planar the Hblad is portable and the RZ still isn't but neither camera will give you critically sharp photos this way due to mirror-slap, compared to a TLR-Rolleiflex which I also owned for some time. Also, the Hasselblad needs more maintainance than any other systems I ever owned with regular cleaning and tuning of shutters every few years, complete deadlock in a 500 ELM and uneven spacing in two backs which came back dead as a brick from cla. Before you look for a Hasselblad first find a competent repairer you trust. You can imagine that my trust in that system is rather limited now and my love for the 80 mm F-Planar and 150 mm C-Sonnar cant make up for this. Some of the other lenses, notably the non-fle 4/50 mm and the 5.6/250, aren't really much to write home about btw. The Mamiya is a great camera for working from the trunk or around your house and on a tripod and there it is more flexible due to the available tilt/shift accessories, bellows-focussing and rotating back. The blad is more of an elegantly executed compromise in everything coming from the Rolleiflex 6x6 (55x55 mm actually) heritage.

Just bought a hasselblad 500c cant wait

Mamiya too heavy for me! Hasselblood needs constant services, that are pricey! I use a '50's Rolleiflex Automat. Lens hood, filter and close up lens! A system that you can hold in one hand!

The sheetfilm holder is not just for making a test exposure. Dozens of special photographic emulsions were for sale as sheet films, butnot in 120 rollfilm. With the special purpose Hasselblad scissors you had to make your 6x6 cm sheetfilm. There are A32 and A32s backs There is an A 2456 back for 35 mm film. The 70 mm back with double perforatiefilm was for aerial photography, for scientific photography, for medical photography etc. The short extension tubes are great for a closer shot with the Zeiss tele lenses. Two types of Hasselblad Polaroid backs for test shots and instant BW negatives. Mount a Hasselblad 500 C/M body to any 4x5 view camera by a special adapter.

Using the term " Analog " already indicates that you know nothing about the subject you are discussing about !

Isn’t it an incident meter?

THANKS FOR VERY GOOD COMPARISON. NOT BEING FUNNY, BUT IS THERE ANY POINT AT LOOKING AT 600%?IS IT NOT ALL DIGITAL NOISE AT ANYTHING MORE THAN 100%?

This Provia looks like it has been developed for 7 minutes in first developer. Fuji films often need to be processed slightly longer than Ektachrome, but adding a full minute to Provia is too much. 30 seconds is enough. Velvia 50 should be developed for 7 minutes (standard time is 6:00(. This is most likely the reason for your Provia looking about half a stop overexposed compared to Ektachrome.

Hi Jonathan. I hope you’re well! I just wanted to say I really enjoy your videos and hope you post again.

Thanks so much for this detailed video. It has been instrumental in helping me understand the Hasselblad system before I go and buy myself one.

Just purchased a 500cx! This was very helpful! Thanks for taking the time to put this together! Very much appreciated! I am looking forward to getting acquainted with my Hassy!

I bought this camera a couple years ago because I wanted to use the lens on my digital camera. Starting to think about trying film. Will run a couple rolls and see how it goes. This is an excellent tutorial for newbies to both film and this camera body. Thanks!

Super late to the party, think I'm more interested in the Delta 100. Like you said it as a little bit more (pop contrast) which I personally like. These days good software can do a nice job of reducing contrast. Now, the search is on for a good developer for Delta 100.

Great video lad ! ❤

it shows your passion for tthe exelence of the camera, and in the process helped to remind me many things.....after watching the video got out everything hasselblad I own and realize many lenses needs service, also 1 body and 1 back . Got my work cut out for me, but at least is a starting point.

There's a vid on UA-cam by Figital Revolution (Stephen Schaub) who explains how you can do variating ISO on ONE FILM with Stand Dev. He uses DDX 45 Min. and always does a 5 Minute presoak to prevent bromide drag (streaking). I have tried T-Max Dev and T-Max mixed with Parodinal, but not with variating ISO. Roger from SFLAB did a Rodinal stand test and the best I thought was the one without any agitation apart from the starting ones.

Thank You! Very helpful review!

You should do the video holding and looking into the Zenzanon as though you are talking to the Bronica.

Im a rolleiflex shooter, but I still have not given up on a hassy if I can find one in good condition for a good price. I hear repairs are inevitable and expensive, but who knows. Both of my rolleis have been dead reliable and offer superb results.

Not any 35. It’s the most boring compromising focal length out there. Not wide enough to count, and impossible to shoot square. What lens? I’d vote 50mm. Then 28. Go from there, if you want wider or longer. I went 21, 90. Maybe another 50. My 28 is the Summilux, so I bought a 24 for a lighter option without getting a second 28. I’m up to 5 leica, 2 voightlanders.

There's a super budget category now too! The Chinese manufacturers are on a roll. I had to test a M240 and picked up the cheapest local sale I could find-- 7Artisans 35/2, $150. It's shockingly good. So good I haven't even replaced it yet. Great video. Kinda confirms what I've found, which makes it perfect for people who haven't the time to research. Nice work 👌👌

Beautiful camera.

There seem to be a lot of usability downsides to switching from the Hasselblad 500CM to the RZ67, with the only benefit being the small increase in negative width from 56mm to 68mm. This results in an aspect ratio of roughly 6:5. Is it worth it for the extra inconvenience and the back ache? One might just as well crop the 6cm x 6cm frame down to 6cm x 5cm when editing since the effect on image quality of doing that is fairly slight. To go seriously "unsquare" and yet gain in IQ, maybe the logical step is to go to 6 x 9 (actually 56 x 84mm) and get the genuine 2:3 aspect ratio. That train of thought leads to the Fujica GL690 series of rangefinder cameras, since there are no other practical alternatives for this format. Having recently acquired one of these, along with three lenses, I can vouch for the image quality which is top class. Being a rangefinder camera, close-up work with the GL690 is probably not its forte although the viewfinder does have parallax compensation. However, the portability and ease-of-use are much closer to the 500CM than the RZ67 while the prices are nearer to the RB67 system than to the Hassy. Of course, like with all these old medium format cameras, one has to buy with great care to avoid big repair bills.

Such a great video, thank you very much! Highly informative and entertaining!

You're talking boloney.

Hi Jonathan! Really like your videos, and this one I found very helpful. I do a lot of expired film photography on my Instagram account (same name as you see here) and I do a lot of color balancing (I usually call it color correcting) with my film scans. Expired film has a lot of color shifts, so it’s a challenge! I don’t have an Epson scanner, I use a less expensive scanner from Wolverine, so I usually open my bad color scans in Photoshop Elements. I never knew how to use the color curve so I found that helpful. You are very knowledgeable and I hope you continue with videos when you can. Thank you so much for what you do here on UA-cam. Cheers from USA 🇺🇸. Anthony

Excellent review. You mention slide film a couple of times -- do you just scan that too? What's the advantage, compared to negative film?

This somewhat confirms what I've always thought about Provia having a ½-stop over/under larger dynamic range than does E100. And also that Provia is a bit more neutral, making it a better starting point in a scanning workflow. I'd rather be adding contrast in post than trying to remove it.

Rawtherapee has some comprehensive negative inversion features.

I'm sorry I bought all of my film cameras. Film and processing costs have left me penniless

Been looking to purchase one for a bit now, and can’t seem to locate one.

i love that "90s mums" will forever have beautiful photos from this camera to remember their memories with their families, compared to the era of low quality digital/early phone cameras we went through in the first 2 decades of 2000s. Only now do phones and digital cameras actually take good photos and now we are circling back to used cameras from the 20th century.

Brilliant video! I like that it's not your typical over the top youtuber content while not taking yourself too seriously at the same time. All the information I was looking for is there. Audio quality is impeccable and the setting is great. An all around good job. Cheers chap!

I bought a 501cm, £3000, was it worth it.... yes, and Im a chef lol

My 501cm just arrived, loved your video. thanks for the info.

Brilliant video mate, very helpful insigts! Might I ask how you scan your negatives, they come out so sharp? Let the lab do it or you have a scanner yourself?

Love your work Jonathan. Don't even have this camera but enjoyed all the explanations about a timeless piece of technology.

Honestly, got a three-pack for christmas two years ago and searched a video to check if my scans were just wacky or not. Turns out, even though i like grain, the xpro grain is too destructive for my taste and the color shifts are too reddish for me. Will keep this in the fridge for now, maybe shoot it in the future. Not that big of a fan.

Great video but kill the music please, because it makes you difficult to hear.

What kind of film scanner are you using?

Stand developing is excellent for darkroom printing.

Kiev 60🥰

In January 2024 (exactly 6 years after this video was posted) Delta 400 from AG Photographic now costs £118. That’s a year on year price rise of %9.09 from £70 six years ago.

I used Hassies early in my career. (Starting in 1973) They take great quality photos. But the lack of instant return mirtor bothered me. The screen was not bright. (I did buy a third party Britescreen) The interlock of F stop and shutter speed selectors is awkward and makes bracketing exposures difficult. Doesn't have 1/3 F click stops. Loading film is slow. The pins that hold the backs on bend. There is a lot of vibration with the mirror and rear light blind. The mechanical connection between body and leaf shutter cocking can get out of sync...locking a lens on. Polaroid back could prevent use of some 90 degree prisms. I switched to the Rollei 6006 system as soon as it came out. Like going from a WWII prop plane to a jet fighter. Just one example: on a Hassie, after your last shot, you wind on and try to take another shot but the camera is locked up...sometimes just as the model has a perfect expression. My assistant had to watch the frame counter and stop me to reload. On the Rollei, the film automatically winds off after the last shot. Then you can just swap in a cheap preloaded film insert...no need to change backs. The film will advance to the first frsme.

Very nice description of the options in this format - intelligently presented.

This was great. I’ve had hasselblad 500c/m and el/m’s for years. I think it’s time to bring them out and use them. It’s been years.

Very informative. Great work. Just curious, what camera you use to capture your videos? Cheers

there is a back that can convert the hassleblad to a 645 camera. The a16 back